My last week in London is a time of reflection and of fond farewells to favorite places and friends. I’ll start with two pictures of the mighty trees in Russell Square Park as they go deeper into Autumn.
In summer these trees form a canopy over the park and shield much of the outside world from view. Now, though in various shadesof gold, green and brown, they remind me that my time in London is coming to an end for another year.
The First Noel
On a final visit to Covent Garden, I found that Christmas had come to the venerable shopping arcade, even before Halloween had arrived.
The weather outside has certainly been cold enough to remind us of the coming winter season, but this used to be a time in London when poppies were sold and displayed in honor of those who had lost their lives in defense of Britain, a tradition that goes back to World War 1.
Secret Maps
The British Library had one last gift for me in the form of its current exhbition “Secret Maps.”
The exhibit included ancient maps. secret maps, escape maps, an astrolabe and more. Below are a few examples.
Portuguese settlements in Asia 1646North America 1763Venezuela and Guyana 1660AstrolabeAfrica 1558Sword Beach Normandy 1944World War II Escape MapsLingerie ade from WWII Escape Maps (Postwar)
All in all, an interesting experience
More of the Long Goodbye
A gathering took place at Caffe Tropea. A group of my friends, who I met at the caffe several years ago, came together for a chance to wish me farewell. It is one of the joys of my trips to London to have come to know this eclectic group of people. We laugh and joke, solve the world’s problems and drink delicious Italian coffee. It is always hard to wish this group goodbye.
The Tropea Coffee Crew, minus 3
As the last week continues, my friends Nigel, Gwynne, and Mike met me for lunch today. We spent a few hours chatting. It was warm enough to eat outside. We were, once again, at Caffe Tropea and thus able to enjoy the beautiful views in Russell Square Park.
A quiet Autumnal afternoon found me back at the British Museum revisiting the ancient worlds of Egypt and the Mediterranean. As we move further into a digital modern age and world of artificial intelligence, sometimes it good to reflect on the incredible ingenuity and creativity of those who came long before us.
Egyptian funerary art remains a mystery. In today’s world, so many have dismissed faith in a supreme being or an afterlife, that we can only imagine how Egyptians came to create and develop their belief systems.
The care and artistry that goes went into these items is remarkable and thought provoking.
Ancient Rome and its predecessor communities gave us such an amazing variety of artistic achievement.
Sculpture, pottery, mosaics, representations of mythical creatures and emperors, So much from this relatively small corner of the world.
I guess I should say that it is this time in my London sojourns, as the days dwindle down to a few, how much I love living so close to the British Museum and being able, on a whim to spend some time there.
Oh, Did I Forget to Mention More Late Bloomers?
The local parks continue to give us late blooms, as we head into the second half of October.
Helene Kröller-Muller and Her Post-Impressionist Collection
Helene Kröller-Muller was a German philanthropist whose impressive collection of Post-Impressionist Art was on display at the National Gallery in London’s Trafalgar Square. A dear friend, Rhonda with whom I share the honors of being a graduate of Oceanside, NY Senior High School and SUNY Oneonta, suggested we visit the exhibit during our day out during her brief visit to London. There isn’t a superlative that can capture this exhibit. The picture at the beginning of this blog is also from the exhibit.
Le Bec Du Hoc-Geeorge SeuratThe Sewer- Van GoghChahut (the Can Can)- SeuratIn July, Before Noon-Theo van RysselbergheThe Print Lover-Jan Toorop Anna Boch-Theo van RysselbergheRhonda and Me in front of the National Gallery, with George Washinton (headless) behind us.
Bonus Photos
Two Interesting Bloomsbury Rooftops.
No Kings Day
It seems strange to be away from the USA on such an auspicious day. I sat this morning in the plaza of British Library on Euston Road, looking up at the Ann Frank Tree, grown from a sapling taken from the tree that sat outside the window of the Frank families hidden refuge in Amsterdam.
It seems impossible to me that 80 years after the world fought to end authoritarian rule by the German Fascist government that millions of Americans would be taking to the streets to peacefully protest what they see as a growing threat to our Constitution and our democracy. Can millions more Americans not see what is happening and can they not see the attempts to ignore and erode the rule of law? Young Ann and millions more died simply because a leader hated who they were. He did not have a system of checks and balances to stop him. Where are the checks and balances in our democracy today. Did our fathers and grandfathers fight and die in vain? I pray that the protests today remain peaceful and that we see all three branches of our Federal government acting within the law and according to our Constitution.
It was a quiet day and I was just out walking to get my steps in. In the course of my walk, I ventured onto the campus of University College London (UCL) and found these two sculptures.
The first is Thiruvalluvar, a Tamil Poet and Philosopher. The second is “The Green Man,” a figure from British folklore.
Tree Talk
I can never pass the The Brunswick Plane Tree (aka, the Great Plane of Brunswick Square) with stopping to admire it and to stand in awe of this great tree which dates back, at least as far as 1796.
These photos do not do it justice, but if you are ever near Brunswick Square in Bloomsbury London, stop and visit.
Back at the National Portrait Gallery
On another day where my scheduled day did not go to plan, I decided to hop on the Picadilly Line and begin my farewell tour of favorite places. First Stop, the National Portrait Gallery. OK, I admit it, I’m still looking for them to install an individual portrait of Queen Camilla, the Queen Consort. I took a few photos of some of the pieces I really like.
MandelaThe King and QueenColley CiberMorcomb and WiseLuluFrench and Saunders (in reverse order)Jane Goodall
Lee Miller Exhibit at the Tate Britain
My dear friends Nigel and Gwynne came up from Kent and we agreed to meet at the Tate. Unfortunately, they went to the Tate Britain and I went across the river to the Tate Modern! After a bit of travel on my part, we met up for the Lee Miller exhibit at the Tate Britain. Lee Miller (1907-1977) started out as a fashion model. She moved to Paris and became a fashion and fine art photographer who took some stark pictures of the aftermath of World War II.
Fashion
Moving into Fine Art
The War
Vienna Opera HouseNazi Officer SuicideBurlington Arcade
Famous Friends
Max ErnstSculptor Henry MoorePicasso
Lee Milller’s career was prolific. Her photos are quite memorable. See this exhibit if it comes to a museum near you.
Extra Photos from my Uber Ride
As we drove through Westminster, we were stopped at a traffic light. Here are two partial views of Westminster Abbey.
It has been a period of time where I saw another West End Production, and revisited an old favorite.
“Punch” is a powerful production about the impacts of youth culture and how one thoughtless act (a punch, thrown in support of one’s group can have a lifetime impact on multiple people and families.
The production included current music, flashing lights and the cutaway” technique of short scenes that changed quickly. The enselble cast was outstanding.
Below are a couple of shots of the Picadilly Circus area near the theatre.
I book the concerts I will see on Sunday mornings and Monday afternoons at Wigmore Hall in early Spring as soon as the booking period for “Friends of Wigmore Hall” opens. In my excitement, or due to the quality of performers, I occasionally book “back to back” Sunday and Monday concerts. That is what happened recently. And, so, only one bouquet is shown because it was there, looking fresh at both the Sunday and Monday performances.
Sunday’s performers were soloists from the Kronberg Academy.
Hana Chang, a brilliant violinist was just one of the performers.
The repetoire included pieces by Robert Schuman, Ernő Dohnányi, and Johannes Brahms.
Mondays performance was, as always recorded for broadcast on BBC Radio. Performing were the Kleio Quartet. Beow is a photo.
Their selections oncluded pieces by Elgar, Webern and Haydn. They played superbly. Elgar is always warmly received by London audiences, but all three of these pieces received laud applause from the audience. It was a truly delightful afternoon of music.
The final bit of culture was a return to my favorite museum, the Victoria and Albert. Here are just two pieces that caught my eye.
Dormer Window from Montal, Dordogne (1523-35)The Angel Gabriel from the Annunciation (about 1410-1450)
These rare pieces, hundreds of years old remind us of the rich cultural heritage we all share and through casting and saving pieces through restoration, we have to enjoy today.
Birthday Fun
One of the great things about being in London in early October is the chance to celebrate the birthday of the older of two of my “nearly-grandnieces.” These are the granddaughters of my longest-standing English friends, Nigel and Gwynne and the daughters of their son and daughter-in-law, the amazing accomplished James and Katie. Below is a picture of the venue, a great community space, and a picture I took from my Uber along the way. The party was a wonderful chance to catch up with James and Katie’s extended families and to be reminded of how much noise a bunch of happy, healthy ten year olds can make.
The Party Venue in Tooting, LondonThe Chelsea Bridge, London
Days of Confusion
I had several roller-coaster days after contacting a few “estate agents,” as real estate agents are known on this side of the pond. I saw one very small efficiency flat and then after a day or two of not expecting to hear further, I got a call from the agency closest to my current rental flat. The agent had a listing in my favorite building and the flat was perfect, a dream come true. My proposed offer was acceptable and I was “on the mountain top. Then came “Death Valley Days” (without Ronald Reagan or Twenty Mule-Team Borax). This was occasioned by a discussion with a mortgage brokerwho oepened my eyes to the ageism and insane taxing process of buying property in England. Basically, if you are an old f*rt, and you are not a UK citizen, bring a full cash offer, or don’t come to the party. It was a “fasten your seatbelts, its going to be a bumpy night,” (to quote Bette Davis in “All About Eve.”) kind of experience. But, I learned from it.
Late Bloomers
Flowers keep blooming in the two parks closest to the flat I am staying in. Enjoy.
Bonus Picture
Several weeks ago, when my dear friends Barbara and Kuhrt were in London from Denmark, we had dinner at a charming French restaurant next to Orange Square where this statue of a young Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart “lives.” I forgot to post it at the time.
I have 19 days left on this trip. I hope to have a few more posts.