And so, I have returned to London. My first week has been one of slowly working on getting my legs and feet back in shape. An early spring strain of my calf muscles which led to a flare up of plantar fasciitis has meant that I needed to ramp up my London walking life carefully. Even so, one of my first stops was a health walk to my favorite stomping ground, “Caffe Tropea,” in Russell Square Park. I was pleased to find almost my whole
Caffe Tropea in Russell Square, London
gang of coffee drinking friends sitting at an outside table on a beautiful sunny afternoon. There was plenty of catching up and friendly banter. Needless to say, the American Presidential elections were of great interest. Paulo Tropea and his staff greeted me warmly too, really making me feel at home.
I spent a few days getting past the jet lag by simply enjoying Bloomsbury. Here are a few photos of some of the things I saw.
Summer flowers in Brunswick Square Garden and the sculpture “Coreagrafia” by Will Carr that stands at the entrance to the Brunswick Centre.
Now was the time for the adventures to begin. I decided that my first stop had to be the National Portrait Gallery where I have been asking them for a decade or more when they were going to have an image of Queen Consort Camilla. I don’t know why I got such a burr under my saddle about this, but I felt like she deserved to be there. Her predecessor was and still is represented and remains very popular. But the Queen Consort has become more popular and is quite a remarkable “royal.” Well, my regular notes and emails must have worked. Because on this visit, I saw this:
Good things come to those who wait!
While visiting, I was also happy to see this portrait of novelist A.S. Byatt by one of my favorite artists, Patrick Heron, was back on display.
There was also an interesting exhibit at the gallery, “Silent Testimony,” by Belfast artist Colin Davidson. This is a series of paintings of people connected by having suffered loss during “The Troubles” in Northern Ireland. Here are some of those portraits.
The faces seem to tell a story of sorrow, stoicism, and loss. Quite a moving experience.
If my Alma Mater invites me to return “to the mother ship,” as my fellow alums of a certain ‘booming’ era call it, I’m likely to respond with a “heck yes, let me see if there is a direct flight.” And so, just days after my trip to Kansas City, I found myself back at Washington National Airport. The 1889 Society at the State University of New York at Oneonta was holding its annual Holiday Reception and that meant a chance for me to see the campus I love and spend several hours more in Canadian Regional Jets. To be honest, though, American Airlines has significantly upped its game and the brief flight from Washington to Albany, New York was as pleasant as could be, featuring one of the nicest flight attendants I have had had serve me on a domestic flight in years.
What the…It’s Snowing in Albany!
One never travels North in December without suitable outerwear, but the shock was real, as I left the passenger terminal to pick up my rental car. Below is a picture of me, suitably bundled up and wearing my new Kansas City hat as I stand in front of my rental in the airport garage, thinking how pleasant it will be to have Sirius Radio to keep me company through the mountains, as I drive West to Oneonta.
Only moments later, as I pulled over on a side road to adjust the radio, were my hopes temporarily dashed when I discovered that Sirius had not be made available except for purchase. Luckily, I remembered that my personal Sirius account was available through my Android phone (some readers will recall the great London phone heist of late October, now (luckily0, a memory). So, after some fiddling with wires, I had the companionship of radio broadcasts all the way down to Oneonta, as snow squalls chased me in the late morning greyness.
Most of the journey from Albany is made on Interstate Highway-88 (I-88). During the other three seasons of the year, it can be a breathtakingly beautiful drive through a glorious section of the Catskill Mountains with vistas of hills and mountains, verdant green in summer, filled with pinks, yellows, and purples in Spring, and all the palate of Autumn leaves during that season. Unfortunately, Winter is pretty much grey. The highway was quite empty though, so the trip was pretty uneventful. Of course, vigilance is necessary because the deer will get you if you are not careful.
Not a great photo, but to give you an idea of what I-88 is like cutting through the mountains.
A Piece of My Heart Remains Here Always.
My first stop upon coming off of I-88, was the Courtyard Marriott, where I would be staying for two nights. It sits on a hilltop on the opposite side of I-88 from the business district in Oneonta.
Courtyard by Marriott, Oneonta, NY
The hotel was lovely. The staff was absolutely great. My room was very nice. I have stayed at the hotel before, but I must say that like American Airlines, this place has upped its game too.
A Slate Grey Oneonta Day-Wednesday Afternoon Visit to Campus
SUNY Oneonta has acronyms. For the best part of half a century, we referred to the institution as “SUCO,” the acronym for the State University of New York College of Arts and Sciences at Oneonta (later shortened to the State University of New York College at Oneonta). We pronounced the long U and O while SUNY College at Oswego which was also SUCO used the short U and the long O. All went along fine until a lttle over a year ago when SUCO was granted University status within the SUNY system. So now it is SUNY-O until we can think of something better. As for the weather, the snow continued to flurry and to use the term my friend Duke coined, it was a slate grey Oneonta day.
A slate grey Oneonta day. View of Fitzelle Hall and Upper Campus from the Hunt Student Union Parking Lot.
I did a quick reconnoiter of Red Dragon Outfitters to see if any new merchandise was in. I did get the first view of a new Alumni Tee Shirt that will sell like hotcakes on Alumni Weekend this year. I also made my first of two visits to the on-campus Starbucks that is temporarily located across the hall from Red Dragon Outfitters in part of a space that once sold (the now archaic) textbooks. Starbucks, I understand will eventually move back into the Hunt Student Union, once extensive renovations are completed there.
I next had to pick up my parking pass from the newly renovated Alumni Hall. The building was, through my junior year on campus, the original Milne Library. To get there, I drove down the road that separates the majority of the dormitories and dining halls from the academic and administrative buildings. As I mentioned in a message to a friend that day, whenever I see the dorms for the first time on a return to campus, particularly my freshman year residence, I get a frisson. I feel as i did when I was a student, a type of excitement with the world and the possibility it holds.
“The Street of Dreams” as seen through my windshield. Dorms to the left classrooms, etc. to the right.
The Main Events
Thursday dawned cold with a slight frosting of snow. I had time to get a walk around part of the campus before I thought my feet would freeze. Then I had a lunch meeting to discuss, among other things, my class’s upcoming 50th reunion in 2025. I was also given a tour of the newly renovated Alumni Hall. The facilities are fantastic. As always, the Director of Alumni Engagement and the Vice President for College Advancement, two incredibly hard working, incredible people (and people who have become dear friends of mine) provided me with many interesting insights and great discussion, as well as a good lunch.
The Campus Quad with the pillars from Old Main in the foreground.
The pillars from Old Main still held up the front entrance of that grand old Victorian building, the original home of the Oneonta Normal School, from which the university grew. Tragically, a fire in the 1970s caused damage too severe to save the structure, but the pillars were brought here. There is now a tradition of students passing through the pillars as they begin and end their studies. See an old photo of the grand old building below.
Another monumental reminder on the quad is the one in the picture below, honoring SUNY Oneonta graduates lost in the terrorist attacks on the World Trade Center on September 11, 2001.
The above two photos are just two reminders of the passage of time since the happy years I spent on this wonderful campus. But perhaps the happiest and most important memory I took away from this visit was the 1889 Society’s Holiday Reception in the lovely Welcome Center on campus. This event is a chance to mingle with faculty, staff, students and other alumni who are members of the society, and we get entertained by students, including the university’s A Capella group “Hooked on Tonics.”
Hooked on Tonics
The incredible Gerry Raymonda took photos at the event. I suspect they will be available on SUNY Oneonta social media.
Over Too Soon
Another uneventful drive back to Albany on Friday morning. I said farewell to the Empire State.
The day after Thanksgiving, I strapped a plane to my butt (as my friend Roz often puts it), and flew to Kansas City, MO, via Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. After a healthy hike between concourses at O’Hare (ah, the happy memories of the summer I worked at NRC’s Second City-adjacent Regional Office). Then it was off on a “comfortable” Canadian Regional Jetette to the huge new Kansas City International airport. The airport see picture below, is built on the “current” model (see LaGuardia Airport in New York, for another
example. This means that upon deplaning (shout out to the late Herve Villechaize), one, again hike past every food, drink and retail vendor in a very large shopping mall that now coexists within the airport. It is not possible to leave the security area and reach either baggage claim or ground transportation without going through this forced march.
Reunited and the Food’s So Good
IM’s upon landing
“Just landed and we are still taxiing. Will update at baggage claim.
I am at doors D-F!
Look for a black Prius.
Outside it says 1 E2
It will take me a couple of minutes!
So, why did I go to Kansas City, anyway, one might ask. Well, it all started in a dining hall at SUNY Oneonta long ago. A young woman standing several tables away from where a young man was sitting made a funny face in his general direction. he, of course, returned it, with one of his own. They both laughed and a few minutes later, she went over to explain that the face was meant for someone behind him. Fast forward to today and that young woman and that young man, having become very good friends at college, shared good and bad times, were meeting again.
In the years after college, Kathy and her husband Dave had moved from New York, our home State to Kansas City, crossing the State line back and forth between Missouri and Kansas. Along the way, they had two children and honored me by asking me to be their son’s godfather. We mourned the loss of parents, celebrated births and deaths of family and friends, laughed and cried together and are finally keeping the promises to see more of each other. Having my godson, Alex and his family in town from Chicago for Thanksgiving, made the trip all the sweeter.
Kathy and Dave’s daughter Meghan lives nearby in Kansas, so I got to see her and her teenaged kids too (yikes, how did that happen?) And, of course, we all went out for some Kansas City barbecue at Q39
(no, not that Q). We ate well. I’ll leave the “best barbecue argument for those who have never eaten at Brooks Barbecue in Oneonta, NY.
Saturday morning came too early, but we were ready for it. Kathy and Dave had prepared a big breakfast for Alex and Jamie and their kids to see them off for the long drive back to Chicago, hopefully beating the predicted snow! Alex and Jamie are incredible parents with endless patience. But their two kids (my “God-grandchildren”, as I jokingly call them) are so darn cute (their son really is Alex’s mini-me in looks and personality).
The Chicago Doyles ready to depart for the Windy City.
Independence Day
With Alex and family on the road, Dave, Kathy, and I cleaned up the breakfast. Dave, being a gracious host, found some soccer on TV while Kathy got changed and then, she and I headed for Independence, MO, to visit the Harry S. Truman Presidental Library and Museum. “Give ’em Hell Harry,” “The Buck Stops Here,” “Dewey Defeats Truman.” Like most Americans of my age, I remembered these tidbits about the man that most Americans knew little about when he became President upon the death of Franklin Delano Roosevelt very soon after Roosevelt was elected to his fourth term. Truman was Roosevelt’s third Vice President, replacing Henry Wallace. As the history was told at the Museum, Democratic Party insiders, at the time, realized how ill President Roosevelt was and put forward Senator Truman because they believed he was a man ready to lead the country. However, as the conventional history tells the story, he had little contact with Roosevelt before FDR’s death, only months after their inauguration. The museum tells Truman’s story from farmer’s son to his business career to soldier. He was also a romantic. There was only one woman for him. His love letters to Bess from overseas during World War I were romantic and touching.
Truman was tough but he was a man who respected and cared about the troops, and they respected him. For this reason, for the pain and destruction he saw in WWI, he felt he made the correct choice to use the Atomic Bomb. He and Bess, like the Carters, a few decades later, were humble people who chose to return home after his Presidency. Kathy mentioned that in June after their return from Washington, Harry and Bess, without Secret Service protection, got into their Chrysler and went on a road trip! A book was written about it later: “Harry Truman’s Excellent Adventure: The True Story of a Great American Road Trip”, by Matthew Algeo. I haven’t read it yet, but, I imagine it is interesting. Before I discuss our final adventure, here are some pictures from the Museum and Library.
The man welcomes you.I snuck this one when Kathy wasn’t looking.The Trumans lived much of their term in Blair House while the White House was rebuilt. Daughter Margaret is seen with Bess.Presdent Truman enjoyed the “Little White House” at the Naval Air Station Key WestOne of the cars the Trumans owned.
Getting Our Steps In
Sunday morning, I was the first to wake up. I looked out the window and this was my view!
After a pleasant morning of chat, breakfast and some English Premier League Football, Kathy and I were off to give Dave some peace and quiet while we visited “The Link.” Kansas City has repurposed its grand old train station into a shopping hub and science discovery center with a large connect parking garage. It also has an insulated heated and cooled enclosed walkway connecting it to a shopping mall and the two hotels. It is, indeed, a great place to get some walking in on a snowy Sunday.
Kansas City Union Station
Union Station was already decorated for Christmas and looked great. I understand from Kathy that it was a lucky break that the grand old building was saved from destruction. It alone was worth a visit. These two shots give some idea of that the link looks like. The first shows the walkway, the second is looking down into one of the lobby areas.
As I mentioned, there is also a modern shopping mall where I bought a rather handsome hat. It was a great afternoon out.
Finally, I can’t complete this blog without a picture of my hosts, Kathy and Dave, great friends and good people.
Sorry this took so long. No excuse beyond the usual, jet lag and idleness.
A Long-Anticipated Oneonta Visit
The Final Chapter started with the arrival of Gwen Schuster, a longtime friend I know through SUNY Oneonta. Gwen and I first formally met when we served together on the Alumni Board of our alma mater a few decades ago. I had known her before as “that red haired lady who always won some golf contest at the alumni weekend golf tournament”. She knew me as one of the Class of ’75 alums who came back every year and were known for our class spirit. Gwen’s late husband Rudy and I had become friends too. He had an interest in all things nuclear and he and I would have great chats at various alumni dinners over the years. This was Gwen’s first solo trip since Rudy’s passing and I was thrilled to be able to welcome her to London on the morning of her arrival. Gwen continues to represent the class of 1963 with charm and panache.
Liseta Carmi Photography at the Esoterick Collection
I always try to visit the Esoterick Collection, one of London’s smaller modern art venues during my annual sojourn. About two weeks back, I realized I had not yet been there. I went online and saw that it had a rather provocative exhibition on and decided I would choose a morning and go up there to see “Liseta Carmi Identities. Ms Carmi died at 98 in 2022. The exhibit focused on her photos of Genoa Italy’s population of people who today would be called transgendered, transsexual or cross-dressers. In those days, such distinctions were not made. The other part of the exhibit focused on the social issues of the working people of Italy and how they did their work. The picture above is one of the ones on display as are the ones below. The community of people welcomed Ms Carmi and her photos somehow showed such openness and kindness to them. Similarly, her photos on the subject of working people are quite remarkable. The final picture is from a video that was shown of the late artist at the end of her life, unadorned and quite satisfied to discuss her many accomplishments.
No More Pennies for the Guy
The coming of Autumn used to be the time of bonfires and children making a Guy Fawkes to be paraded around the streets on Bonfire Night (November 5th) with requests for “a penny for the Guy.” Now, however, it’s all about Halloween. Here are two pictures of the decorations at the Tube Station near the Esoterick Gallery and in Brunswick Centre, the local shopping precinct near the flat I rented.
Backstairs Billy
I had booked tickets for this production back in the late Spring knowing very little about it. I knew it was about Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, and a servant of whom she was very fond. I, of course, assumed it would be like Queen Victoria and Mr. Brown, and all be very tasteful and proper. Boy, was I wrong! Well, not completely. Billy (William Talon), starting at age 15, rose through the ranks at Clarence House, the Queen Mother’s home, after she was widowed at 55, to become “Page of the Backstairs,” Her Majesty’s most trusted aide. He keeps the house looking as if it is still in Edwardian times and does his best to keep the Queen Mother who went from being the best known and loved woman in the UK and Empress of India, to being a widow whose family didn’t have much time for her, happy and amused. The Queen Mother made it quite clear early on that she had no problem with Billy’s sexuality or that there would be “two queens” in Clarence House. In fact, she is portrayed very sympathetically as a rather jolly lady who enjoyed a gin and a dance with Billy. He was allowed to “take liberties” and even do impressions of Princess Margaret and the then Prince Charles. He did make one serious blunder of getting caught by one of the “bean counters” from Buckingham Palace when he brought a ‘rent boy’ to Clarence House. But the Queen Mother meted out her own punishment and then forgave him. He was with her until she died at 102.
Rainy Days
The last nine days featured a good amount of rain. In order to make sure I made my step count on one of those days, I visited the British Museum, (in the neighborhood) and walked through its upper floors. Along the way, I came across some interesting mosaics and ceramics that I thought I might share.
King Lear
The above picture might say all that needs to be said. Branaugh was bigger than life, as one reviewer put it, overenunciating every word. But he was good, very good. In my own cynical way, I had to notice that the Lear daughters, a multi-cultural trio of outstanding actors were obviously from different mothers. The story, I think most of us know. A ridiculously bloody tale, with the typical Shakespearean bodies all over the stage ending. But the staging was good. Minimalist in set decoration and an almost pre-historic feel to the costuming.
It was a wonderful last performance to see, and I had hopes for the trifecta of Backstairs Billy on Friday, Lear on Saturday (matinee) and my final visit to Wigmore Hall for one last Classical Blast on Sunday.
The Last Concert at Wigmore that Wasn’t (or The Great Phone Heist)
At the risk of repeating myself to many of you, at this late date, a lovely Sunday morning dawned, and I got an early start for my walk to Wigmore Hall from my flat. I like to arrive early and have time for a coffee and croissent at the restaurant in the lower level of Wigmore Hall. I was enjoying the crisp morning air, but Google Maps kept cutting out on my earbuds and so I would take my phone out of my trouser pocket to make sure it was working, and that the problem wasn’t my earbuds. I took the phone out, noticed that I was .7 miles from Wigmore Hall and suddenly a bicyclist came from behind me, in between me and the plate glass window of a large building and grabbed my phone. He was gone in seconds. The man was dressed head to toe in black with a black ski mask and black gloves. I was annoyed more than surprised, as phone theft is a major problem in London. Usually, though, the streets I walk on are so busy a maneuver like his would not have been possible.
I did complete my walk to Wigmore Hall, but rather than go to the concert, I went looking for the Mobile phone stores on nearby Oxford Street, a major shopping district, but they wouldn’t open until Midday on a Sunday. Luckily, I had a backup pay-as-you-go UK phone that allowed me to let some local friends know. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get through to T-Mobile, but good old Google saved my bacon, and I was able to “brick” my phone through them. My biggest worry was not being able to contact the fellow that drives me to and from Heathrow Airport. I had a feeling, though, that he would show up, based on our previous agreement and he did! He and I now have all forms of communication instead of just WhatsApp.
The Metropolitan Police could not have been nicer or more helpful or honest. They said there was little chance of getting the phone back, but expressed lots of concern about me and if I needed any kind of follow up care of any kind. As I’ve said many times, I’m just glad it happened to me and not a first-time visitor who might be put off from returning to the great city.
After a nice flight home on Virgin Atlantic, my local Naples. FL. T-Mobile store was great. They helped me with the form to report my stolen phone to the insurance company and order my replacement which I received two days later. The staff at the store got me up and running and most of my data, beyond phone contacts and messages was backed up and saved.
So, all things considered, I had another great sojourn in the UK (and Normandy). I still love London and my heart is with Fulham FC. Stay tuned for more adventures.